Stage 8 Taormina Rest Day

G7 is in town next week

Taormina is a hilltop town on the east coast of Sicily.  The town is known for the Teatro Antico di Taormina, an ancient Greco-­Roman theater still used today. Near the theatre, cliffs drop to the sea forming coves with sandy beaches. 

The Greeks arrived in Naxos close by in 734 BC


Taormina is one of the few cities in Sicily where the  Romans established a colony. After the fall of Rome the Muslims ruled the town, then the Normans, Germans and then the French. Everyone has had a go.

 A very strong presence of Poliza Carabinieri and military as the G7 Summit is in town next week. A very beautiful town with classy shops, very clean and tidy targeting the high end tourists, such as us five. Expensive items in all retail outlets, bags, shoes, clothing, jewellery etc. The boys spent big here, the ladies will be pleased, stop telling porky pies Garry.

Many beautiful  lane ways full of people eating, socialising, and being serenaded by Italian singers and musicians, those smooth Italians. Even the waiters at outside cafe our snappy dressers and persuasive in manner. Okay I will have another Gelati!

We will bring down the dress code

A fascinating day in a beautiful town, so much to see and do, definitely a place to visit with partners and family, bring a big wallet.

This has been the only day without sun so far on the trip, mild but overcast but no rain.A popular spot for cruise ships to drop off all those tourists.

The Piazza at Duomo dates from the 13th century and is stunning with views overlooking the sea below. 

Nothing better than hearing Amore being serenaded in Italian, the first time I have had the pleasure. Belissimo! 

The Irish have invaded, Guinness ahh

Quando la luna colpisce il tuoi occhio, come una grande pizza

Questo è amore

We caught a taxi from the camp, cost E25, (a fiver each, the bus was E3) reasonable value, asked Carmello for his number as we may use him on the way back.

After a big day of walking and enjoying the sights it was time to return to base as we were returning to Claudio Restorante for tea.

Time to catch a taxi from the local ranks at Taormina, E50, what? it only cost us E25 to come here, they were proving difficult not moving, lets call Carmello, don't seem to have the number combination right is that a 7 or a 4, do we use an area code? What are we going to do guys, bus or walk? Talk about good fortune, Ross sees Carmello dropping a passenger off at the same taxi rank, we all shout after him, he is please to see the five Amici's 

We asked Carmello to take us back to camp,

Mara's Leather Shop in background

drop off bags a few change of clothes then 

 take us to Sant Capo Alessio for a meal with

Claudio. Taxi E30, brilliant!

Claudio is over the moon to see us as we bring along seven other campers, his normal patronage this early in the season is small. tonight a couple, maybe hoping for a quiet night and a french couple with young daughter, Macron or Le Pen I ask, they are pleased Macron has been Elected President. Viva La France.

Great spread that Claudio put on fort us. I had Swordfish, others Tuna etc, all drinks, cheeses, nibbles, hot chips, shrimps to finish off spirits, wow what a night. E25 a head. 

Stage 7 Nicolosi - Taormina /Letojanni

Miles From Nowhere I guess I'll take my time, to reach there

Look up at the mountain I have to climb................

Mt Etna Adriano Plateau in centre

 This region of Sicily (Naxos) is the most ancient of all the Greek colonies and dates back to735 BC. The Greeks greatly influenced Italian culture. This can be found in their temples, coinage, weights and measures etc. They also influenced Roman trade, banking, art, literature, philosophy etc.

Lava Flows on the lower slopes

Ross unable to join us today as his injuries are too painful. He had quite a few stitches. When he entered the emergency dept he was No 5 in line, 3 hrs later he was No 7. Ross is fluent in Italian and was amused by all the inpatients writhing in agony calling on JC and all the saints names in order to be seen sooner. One of the nurses also asked if he was one of the Giro riders. Maybe that is why he was bumped down the queue when he said no.

As far as you can go by road Mt Etna

We left the camp at 8.00 pm to tackle Mt Etna fro the south east side of the mountain. Nicolosi sits at 780 mtrs, another beautiful day for climbing. As we pushed towards 1000 mtr the air was cooling,  and the higher we climbed the wind picked up. The lower part of the mountain was steep mainly in the 7-10% range., The black volcanic lava flows are all around, houses and buildings abandoned over the years as successive eruptions over time have taken their toll and pushed everything away within it's path.
Today we take the same route as the Giro the day before. A small sign of life within the black lava flows as a flower or shrub stands isolated and new life begins. Up & up to 2000 mtr and once we reach the maximum height on the road the air is cold and windy, 12 deg C. Large groups of tourists and school excursions fill the mountain scape. A chair lift will take you to 2700 mts, and Etna tops out at 3340 mtr, smoke rising from the Caldera.
On the ocean side of the mountain we were shrouded in cloud the descent was very cold and the road surface extremely rough. All the routes that the Giro was racing on was newly laid tarmac.

Mazzaro

As we hit the coast and fall below 800 mtr the air is warm again and places like Mazzaro are around most corners as we traverse the cliff tops, Wow!! Stunning riding, can't help but stop take photos and admire the scenery.

Naxos

Arrived in Letojanni, our campsite right on the beach. An unusual aspect of finishing the day's ride is a hot soup on arrival along with breads drinks and fruit. I would never have thought hot soup on hot day would go together, but I have to say very enjoyable and welcome.

Head out to watch the Giro on the roadside, it passes right past our campsite.

Garry and Martin get comfortable for the race

The view from Claudio's Restorante

A hard earned thirst needs a big cold beer and the best cold Bierra is Messina
Paul enjoying a refreshing ale at Claudio (Cloudeeo) Restorante

Claudio was watching the race and was very excited for us to join him as he provided cheese and nibbles to go with the drinks.

We said we will be back tomorrow for tea.
 His eyes light up. Claudio born in Sicily tells us he opens only in the summer season and has to find other work out of season, sometimes on the mainland of Italy. We had heard this  familiar story whilst in Sicily.

Claudio, Pip, Peter, Martin, John

Garry was on kitchen duties tonight so had to return early after the race.  Another great spread for tea.

The beach by the campsite with the moon rising over the Med. What a great way to end a wonderful day.

Diesel E1.30, Super E 1.50, Gas 0.70

1700 mtr of climbing

Distance 84 klm

Stage 6 Pergusa - Nicolsi

Gentlemen start your engines......Faster than a bullet from a gun...

Agira

The Hotel in Pergusa is alongside a lake and around the lake is the most important racing track in Southern Italy, the Autodromo di Pergusa that hosts events such as Formula 1, Ferrari events etc.

We head out of town, Peter improving but still not a 100%. We make good progress towards Enna in the centre of Sicily with wonderful panoramic views. It is also the highest provincial capital in Italy, with many important monuments in this region.

Next town on route is Agira, as always perched high on a rocky hilltop. As you may expect churches have many prominent locations and rise above local shops and homes, The bells ring out across the towns, it must be on the hour. A photo opportunity beckons as we reach the high point of Agira, from this vantage point we should be able to see what awaits us over the next 20-30 klm.

The view from the top...Etna awaits

Ooh there is some police operation taking place vehicles parked at irregular angles doors open, passengers up against car bonnets. The Carabinieri are the national gendarmerie of Italy, policing both the military and civilian populations.

Lunch is very close now, very steep, winding dangerous descent with acute switchbacks, that dip away sharply into culverts, gravel edges and trucks motorhomes etc have gouged out the tarmac when they bottom out around corners. This requires concentration, and courage, only the most accomplished of riders could manage these descents.

Cathy & Jim on their fold-up tandem..Oregon USA

Distinct wounds from falling off a bike 

Yes I was embellishing the story a little but it was a dangerous road and on one of the hairpins, the wheel slipped from under Ross in a section that was smooth & slippery conditions

Ross had a nasty fall. Enlarge the picture if you can as the gravel has made deep wounds into his forearm. We were only a short distance from lunch and this would require serious assessment. Also the hip had lacerations.

Ype, Dion attend, Dave also assists, I provide a couple of Nurofen which Sarah had provided for the trip, good choice Sarah. This wound will require stitching, no more riding today Ross.

With Peter below par and Ross off the bike its upto the Domestiques
to carry the team, and what a fantastic job Garry & Paul Coghlan did all day.    

Majestic Etna 3340 mtrs

As we reach the lowest point of 200 mtr below Adriano sitting at 500 mtrs above us on a plateau on the Simeto and Salso rivers. There has been settlement in Adriano since 400 BC. Today we are heading up the side of Etna to a height of 1355 mtrs before we descend into Nicolosi to camp for the night.

Garry, Paul, Peter

We have lost a lot of time today with Ross's injury 

End of the day charging on fire truck

and Peter being unwell. We are last to leave after lunch and way behind the main group, but the four musketeers make good progress

and catch up to the other riders on Mt Etna.

With time lost we arrive in camp around 4.00pm hoping to see the Giro de Italia race pass through Nicolosi, but as we arrive the helicopters are buzzing around, our window of opportunity has passed.

Good camp site a big day and Ross is not released from the hospital until 9.00pm Sore but positive. We all rally around and gather Ross's bags set up his tent etc. to ease the pain

A tuff day in the saddle with climbing on the south side of Etna at about 8-9% most of the way.

Great riding team.

Campsite 800 mts

Distance 105 klm

Vertical Mtrs 2001

Stage 5 San Leone Agrigento - Pergusa

On Ilkley Moor Baht At.......Wheear as ta bin sin ah saw thee

Well a great morning, warm and sunny. 

Breakfast around the campsite

Firstly let me explain a tradition that La Bella awards each day and this is unique to Bike Dreams. Each day they make a special award, called Marmot, which is a native animal similar but slightly larger than a squirrel that lives in the Pyrenees, Alps, Rocky Mountains etc. They live in burrows, are highly social, and use loud whistles to communicate with one another, especially when alarmed. I thought to myself this sounds like Garry, who can be heard yelling Coooee around the campsite.

The award is given to a story from the days ride

 that may or may not have some truths to it.

It went something like this. Please look at the picture from yesterday where the local farmer is driving his small tractor. I passed this tractor going up a hill as I wanted to capture this beautiful image of rural Italy on camera. After taking the photo I rode back up alongside the tractor and held onto the tray for a ride up the hill. Garry noticed this lack of effort on my behalf and relayed the story back to the group via Peter whilst we were visiting the temple, and saying that when he held onto the tractor it stalled and then we had to push start the tractor to get it going. So for his semi truthful tale he was awarded the Marmot which he has to carry for a day on his ride for all to see. A worthy recipient is our Garry who is always telling porky pies.

Campobello, first coffee stop

After a steady climb from sea level out of Agrigento out towards Naro we notice a change in farming techniques. They are on a much larger commercial scale in this beautiful region of Sicily. Large plantations of almonds, olives, figs, vines, fruit trees etc. Then we arrive at Campobello for a coffee and a Gelati (Garry, Miss Piggy). Coffee E1.20 , Gelati E 2.50

Martin 

I have seen some interesting cemeteries around the world, large grave sites, monuments and headstones, but none as large as this. I have seen houses smaller than these monsters. The gentlemen on the gate said it was full up and only family members could be accommodated. 

Hence the introduction title, Ilkley Moor is in Yorkshire and Martin is a typical Yorkshire Man, full of wit and mischief, but great fun to have on the ride. Garry and himself have plenty in common. I asked Martin if he had visited Australia and in his broad best Yorkshire accent said " Aye, five times lad, I rate loved it, it's got ten towns on 't the oughtside and a big sandpit in't middle, and a big paper weight in't middle (Uluru), to stop it blowing away."

Time for lunch and Ype (Ipa) Gerdi, Hank & Dino also Wilbert who is riding today have chosen a beautiful abandoned farm house.

The riding in this region is stunning up and down all morning varying between 2-600 mtrs.

First coffee stop for some in Naro 593 mtrs elevation

Well earned break.

As always a wide choice of food is first class.
Hams, cheeses, salads, drinks, fruit, olives, bars, what can I say about the Bike Dream Team who are all from Holland. They cannot do enough for us.

How good is this?

The view from inside looking across the vines

Peter is feeling pretty ordinary today after riding strongly yesterday with Ross, and for a change he is following us, we are normally chasing his tail. A bit of a chest tightness and cold. No KOM today Peter! Paul Garry and myself will fight for the spoils.









I love surprises when you do not plan things in a corporate sense and expect the unexpected, this trip has delivered it by the bucket load. When you look out into the window of life, the view maybe the same but your understanding of the world has changed forever.

Mazzarino

As you ride through the regions of Sicily I am awe struck at the beautiful towns perched high on steep hills and cliff tops dotted around you and think it would be nice to see them all if you had the time, but you soon realise that is exactly where you are heading as all the roads lead to the hilltops. When you climb up to one town you look back and see all the other places you have just seen sitting proud on the landscape.

We descend down to ride up again to the next town, passing through Ravanusa, Mazzarino, Barrafranca and finally descending into Pergusa. Hotel tonight and beautiful too. 

Sharing a room with Ross tonight as always is great company, in the distance we get our first glimpse of Etna which we are tackling tomorrow.

Charge all the electronics, login, issue another post on the Blog.

Distance 121 klm

Total Ascent 2001 mtrs

Elevation 550 mtrs.

Bill & Jill only have retrieved one piece of baggage, and Dino has travelled with them to collect in Palermo.

See you tomorrow on the slopes of Etna and hopefully see the Giro go through Nicolsi. Buon Notte 

Agrigento

The Old and the New....

What a wonderful view as you descend down into Agrigento looking across the Mediteranean sea 

we pass the new city as in the picture, with its 

sweeping Autostrada spanning the valley and the new city perched high on a hill.

To the right of the this valley is one of the most spectacular examples of Greek art and architecture outside of Greece, built in 440 BC Valle dei Templi.

It covers an area of 1300 hectares and has seven 

temples, such as Concordia, Zeus, Vulcan, Heracles.

We were very excited to have the opportunity to visit this classic example of Greek civilisation. It was mid afternoon and we were camped about 5 klm away so enquired about costs and opening times. 

Wanted to go in straight away, but in bike cleats painful

Cost 5 Euro ($7.50 AUD) Unbelievable

Open until 7.30 pm

More Gum Trees ...fantastic!!

Head to camp freshen up set up tents (first night camping) catch a taxi to the temple. 15 Euro Bargain

Give me a home among the Gum Trees...a sheep or two a kangaroo...

It was late in the afternoon so we told

Concordia

the camp we would not be back for tea so don't wait.

Peter decided to stay and catch up on some communications and rest, also he had ridden hard all day and was feeling a little below par...or was it the meatballs on offer for tea that swayed him visiting The God Zeus!! Will Zeus be pleased he did not visit him?

Herales

What can I say about the Greeks and the 

Romans and the way they shaped civilisation.

Re-enactment of ancient battles

Don't be fooled by the size 

of the little Aussie soldier

standing against the larger 

Greek or Roman centurion

they are no match for us.

Head into town on the seafront for something to eat, place was humming

fun fair happening streets closed and four hungry Aussies,

The Marco Polo looks good, let try this...8.00pm empty we 

are in our finest attire, flip flops, shorts, T-shirts, Garry in his Bali Bintang Vest, all of us sunburnt,looking stuffed. By 9.00pm the restorante was full, all the other customers in the finest outfits as it was a posh place for noisy excited Aussies on holiday.

Great value E91, 2 bottles of wine, 4 meals, 2 beers, soft drinks, entree, desert and coffee.
Great Day

   

Day 4 Santo Stefano - Agrigento

Good King Wenceslas look'd out, on the feast of Stephen..

Yes The famous St Stephen one of the first martyr's who was stoned to death by the high priests, also given the nod by Saul of Tarsus, now known as St Paul, wow he turned his life around, there is hope for us all...It is also a public holiday for many people around the world, Boxing Day!

Early breakfast and we are on our way. Paul has a puncture after about 2klm so everyone is ahead of us as we are delayed about 20 mins. Today will be our first night camping so we are looking forward to experience the change, also being back on the coast.

Camping after this will be hard

Santo Stefano (Saint Stephen) 

Fantastic warm day and down hill all the way to Santo Stefano . The view of the town on the right is from the hotel, A 10 klm downhill no effort riding, that's how it should be.

Bill & Jill Fire duties today

Pigna d'Oro Country Hotel

A quick photo opportunity beside the pool before we head out. Riding is tuff work, camping, climbing, cold, wind and rain, Don't be fooled by these pictures it's HARD, Wish I was back in Sunny Melbourne!!!

View from Alessandria della Rocca


A real surprise in Sicily was the amount of Gum Tree, ok Eucalypt. Maybe returning Italians brought them back home to remind them of Australia? This is one on the left in full pink flowers. We all rubbed the leaves to smell the Eucalypt 
                                                                

Rural Italy has a wonderful feel about it as local farmers go about their daily chores tilling the land attending to the sheep, the bells attached to their body ring out around the countryside. All say Buongiorno as we pass by.

I know they measure horses height by hands, wow this one must be a thousand hands high, beautiful animal 

I will continue the arrival into Agrigento on the next blog as there is so much to say and include, an incredible history and wonderful Archeological sites from the Greeks and Romans. Stayed tuned.

NB Internet challenging and down loads of images slow, camping tomorrow so here's hoping


Distance 85 klm
Descent 2093 mts
Climbing 1182 mtrs
Elevation Camp Sea Level

Coffee E1.20
Gelati E2.50 Grande hmmm!