Stage 15 Paestum - Pompeii

Riding along on my pushbike........

Rise and Shine, ready for a new venture

 Head out from the campsite approx two klms towards the Greek Temples of Hera, there are three in all, roads and an amphitheatre all well preserved. They date from 600-450 BC.The excellent condition is probably because Paestum went into decline and was abandoned in the Middle Ages, until it came to notice again in the 18th century following the discovery of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Temple Of Hera

Salerno

Salerno in the distance and the start of the Amalfi Coast. This is the first city we have ridden with so much traffic, it takes us by surprise after our quiet country roads. We navigate slowly and decide for a cool drink and cakes.

Along the beach front in Salerno

What can you say.....Phew

Car spaces are tight...I think I'll build an open air one with a view

Angelo Fausto Coppi, was an Italian cyclist, the dominant international cyclist of the years each side of the Second World War. His successes earned him the title Il Campionissimo, or champion of champions.

He won the Giro d'Italia five times, The TDF twice and the World Championship, Paris-Roubaix and the Hour Record.

This monument to him is at the top of the pass on the Amalfi Coast before you turn, enter a tunnel and descend into Pompeii

Stage 14 Sapri - Paestum

In the summertime when the weather is fine.....

Sapri in the distance

Feeling much better today so decide to ride. We enter into the Province of Campania. All coastal today, riding along the cliff tops,some fairly goat track type roads, but breathtaking scenery.

All along the coast people are preparing for the coming season, setting up the deck chairs, beach umbrellas, tradies providing the finishing touches.

Daddy Cool in front of Eagle Rock

Not many bathers but it is only May and 25 deg C
We pass through Veila another town founded by the Greeks

Climbing, descending all day but great riding, through cliff top villages to sleepy harbour towns.

We pass through Agropoli which has been inhabited prior to the Greeks and Romans by indigenous population who lived on hunting and fishing. Maybe that is why the Greeks built a temple dedicated to Artemis, the Goddess of Hunting.

 Close to Agropoli is Paestum, previously named Poseidonia by the Greeks until the Romans changed it.

We arrive in Paestum in the middle of the afternoon and are aware of significant Greek Temples close by but decide to set up camp, have a swim and visit the ruins in the morning.

Full steam ahead for the boys along this coastal stretch

The Cilentan Coast is well worth visiting, south of Salerno and the Amalfi Coast, it is quieter and more reasonably priced.

Paestum Beach time for a swim

Stage 13 Sibari - Sapri

And the wheels on the fire truck go round and round..

In the Fire Truck Today

Chief Fire Warden......

No Riding today, too risky as the infection has only slightly improved. Also it is a hard day on the road crossing from coast to coast from Ionian to Tyrrhenian Sea, at Italy's narrowest point. Sad to see the boys head off after breakfast, another hot day, 130 klm and 3000 mts if climbing.

Approaching Sapri

Cathy from Oregon California who partners her husband Jim, who are riding a tandem is also in the fire truck today along with our crew Hank (driver) and Gerdi, (chef).

The fire truck takes the shortest route as they need to arrive at camp first to provide soup and refreshments for the end of the day's ride. Gerdi also picks up new fresh supplies for our evening meal at a local Supermarket (Euro Spin).

We take the Autostrade, great road weaving through tunnels and high bridges which span across valleys overshadowed by wonderful Apennine Mountains which stretch from the north to the south of Italy. 
We arrive at 12.30 pm, lovely seaside town. We are staying at a hotel tonight, The Vittoria.  








Right at the back of the hotel is a bike shop, I know it will be handy for many of the riders as basic supplies such as tubes, repair kits, maybe even a bike top. Peter buys some gloves and I pick up a water bottle. As most retail have a siesta I enquire about trading hours. With sign language and gestures we understand each other. 9-1.30pm, then 4.30 - 8.30 pm

These little beauties are everywhere in Italy, The Piaggio, made by Vespa, the scooter manufacturer. I think they are classified as a motor scooter for registration purposes. 

Piaggio

More Gum Trees. Lovely park along the seafront.
Had a Gelati, went to my room turned on the TV, Von Ryan's Express was on, old Frank Sinatra war movie, great film in the 1960's sadly it is in Italian. Rest for an hour until the first riders start to arrive after a tough day.

Ross first day back in the saddle after his set back of a chest infection.  The boys arrive around 5.00 pm exhausted after some serious Goat Track climbs through the mountains.

Bottle Brush or Callistemon forms a beautiful hedge at the front of the hotel.

Quality Hotel for the Night

Home at last boys, great riding, now for some soup and a Gelati.

Stage 12 Villagio Mancuso - Sibari

Inside the hotel Room

There' a fine line between pleasure and pain...

Tuff night sore throat, temperature rising, Ross not riding today, I decide to ride , even though there is 1200 mtrs of climbing and 145 klm distance, we do finish on the coast so there is a  lot of downhill. Also a rest day to follow.

Wagons Roll

Mancuso is a mountainous plateau region of Calabria, the highest peaks around here are over 1900 mtrs. The air is cool but another sunny day. This area of Calabria contains the National Park created in 2002 and was settled by Greek colonists in the 8th century BC.

Fig trees are in abundance on the La Sila Plateau, beautiful woodlands abound. Villagio Mancuso is 1350 mtrs .Lunch was on the edge of Lago Arvo a lake situated fairly high up on the plateau at 1300 mtrs. As always the crew provide a wonderful lunch, rolls, drinks salads, cheese ham, fruit etc. 

Garry hits a 'Pothole' and punctures immediately, his second so far on the La Bella. Garry playing his tunes from his phone and another timely song by the Divinyl's as we grind out another climb. "A fine line between pleasure and pain." 

I am pleasantly surprised at the extent of the Greek influence (Magna Graecia) Greater Greece throughout southern Italy. But watch out Rome is on the rise and had started to spread it's influence in this region in 500 BC.

 First glimpse of the Mediterranean  on the horizon about 20 klm away what a lovely sight as we start to descend.

The roads are bumpy and challenging descending, you wonder is it linked to the funding allocation for a more prosperous Northern Italy?

We are arrive at the camping park which is situated right on the beach, replenish our depleted bodies with soup and fruit. Feeling ordinary but the lure of a swim in the Med is too strong to refuse. Gum trees are all over the park in Sibari. 

Liam says the photo of our swim is both hilarious and horrendous at the same time. Sean says my eyes have been soiled for ever. Trade mark riders complexion. Skinny upper arms, and suntan legs and arms, with lily white bodies. I agree a pathetic sight, from the bronzed Aussie image that we are trying to uphold. 

Rest day, the boys go into town for a look and see and also for something to eat. I am feeling unwell, slept a lot of the day. High temperature chest infection. 

Ype & Gerrie Prepare Food for Finish

Stage 11 Pizzo - Villagio Mancuso

Another pool, this time in Pizzo

The road is long, with many a winding turn...

He ain't heavy he's  my brother..

Tiriolo

When camping you have to contend with road noise,
snoring, dogs barking, and music. Tents are not efficient at reducing sound. Although we are housed within a building the hotel was directly opposite a Motor Cycle Club, who were in normal party mode, loud, music and a traditional 3.00 am exit with engines roaring, wheelies, and screeching tyres.

The first stop for our morning coffee was Catanzaro, starting to feel unwell, but a welcome stop for a break. Today is almost all climbing up to Mancuso.

But the next rest point to fill the water bottles was Tiriolo, beautiful. 

Early morning  men's group chat

Wonderful to see the young playing, running, mothers with children, coffee, a real sense of community. the small town was full of life. 

I think a Gelati is in order Garry? Knowing he will always say yes.

The most direct route to move livestock around is via the roads. Fantastic to see that rural Italy functions as it has for centuries, no one bats an eyelid but is enthralled by the beauty at the Italian way of life, away from the cities.

Hotel where we stayed

This was a long day for Ross and myself as we were coming down with the  bug that was sweeping the group. A throat /chest infection was taking its toll, Paul and Gary carried us most of the way, great work again boys. Garry always has his music selection playing on his phone for all to hear and it was the famous song by the Hollies above that was playing as we were climbing. He ain't heavy....Nice touch Garry. We climbed all day ascending 2500 mts. 

Passing through villages Amato, Tiriolo Taverna and Villaggio Mancuso. 

Beautiful wood land and heavily treed. Mainly pine

Arrive at Albergho dell Posta, hotel tonight, great stuff, classy too, a wedding on, also an Italian First Communion.

Villagio Mancuso is a mountain tourist resort, quite reminiscent of Swiss Chalets.

Stage 10 Palmi - Pizzo

How can you mend a broken screen, how can you stop the rain from falling down

"Apologies for being off line for sometime but my laptop was stored in my soft luggage bag which I access daily. Unfortunately they are stored with many other travellers bags and in their efforts to access their own bag stood on mine and broke the screen. I will endeavour to catch up by using Garry's laptop. "  Thanks to Sarah for you being so patient and my one other follower.

Day after day alone on a hill.........

 We meander slowly down past the harbour to 

The menu bill from last night

start another exciting day on the road.We soon pass Gioia Tauro which is Italy's largest port. A report in 2006 estimated that 80% of Europe's cocaine arrives from Colombia via these docks. It is also involved in the illegal arms trade. These are controlled by the Calabrian crime families. interesting, good luck trying to stop that!!

Twice in recent years the council has been dissolved  because of infiltration by the crime families.

Stromboli is a small island in the Tyrrhenian Sea just off the coast and also has an active volcano at 924 mtrs.

James

  James originally from Lincolnshire but lives in Yorkshire has been riding for many years, once rode from Greece back to the UK in 1998. 
If that is not enough after the 3000 klm ride to Como will meet his wife and hike around Switzerland for 10 days, then ride home to the UK. Wow, impressive riding James. 






Tim you would be interested to know the 
Vespa is made in this region. There are thousands of scooters in Italy. Ahh the memories Tim of the sixties when you rode your scooter. Mods, Rockers, great music, bus conducting, fashion. 

Our next town is a little gem, Tropea. It is a popular bathing place situated on a reef in the Gulf of Euphemia

This region is famous for its Red Onions So 
well known the EU proposed a Protected 
designation of origin, wow they take their onions seriously. 

If I Could Turn Back Time....Cher Coghlan

Thanks Max...delicious

Enough of onions, lets have a Gelati at Maxmillian's. Blimey you can even buy a Red Onion Gelati!! Thanks but not today Max, can't quite get my taste buds to agree on that one.




Ross enjoying everything that this country has to offer. Rossario Sanelli whose parents are both Italian is on his first visit. Welcome home Ross, we love it too.

Hot today, good riding with some nice climbs

Stage 9 Taormina - Palmi

We're on the road again........

Bill & Jill

Great news for Bill & Jill, today will be their first day on a bike after their arrival from the USA. So far they have collected one suitcase(Jill) from Palermo, and since they picked it up they have located the rest of the luggage and bikes, however they are at two different airports. Undeterred by this minor set back Bill & Jill have spent their rest day purchasing a new bike each, much needed clothing and bike riding outfits.

No more fire / kitchen duties. I am sure Ype, Hank, Gerdi & Wilbert will miss your assistance. By the way Ross's arm is improving and he will ride today, also he doesn't need my expert medical assistance with bandaging etc. "Why not" I ask Ross, because Bill is a doctor and Jill is nurse. Fair enough

Wagons Roll

The ride today is in two parts, first a 45 klm ride to Messina, then a ferry to the mainland, then another 55 klm to Palmi.

Messina is where Vincenzo Nibali was born, he won the 2014 TDF when Peter and myself visited France. (yawn yawn you say)

A beautiful ride through all the villages that the Giro passed through the day before, busy but enjoyable, many roadside stalls selling fruit, veggies and this local fish stall. look at the Swordfish and the Tuna, delicious!

Swordfish E20 a Kilo

There's my Swordfish that I had for tea last night.

  

Arrive in Messina for the 30 min ferry ride, they hold a lot of vehicles, large buses, semi's, agricultural vehicles, and you squeeze the bikes in beside them all below deck. Time for a quick cappuccino  before we reach the other side in Reggio.

All Aboard

A most fantastic ride along the coast high above the sea, winding roads and steep cliffs.

We stop for lunch overlooking Scilla a small town in Calabria

My sister said for me to watch out for the sea monster on my travels, well this is the site of Scylla of Greek mythology also the other monster being Charybdis. No sign of them today Clare! A popular beach resort during the summer as it is the first place north of Reggio that descends to sea level. The beach is dominated by Ruffo Castle. 

How good is the view. After lunch onto Bagna Calabra, which is well known for its torrone, a typical delicacy of the village, which is a nougat confection.They have lived for centuries off fishing and agriculture, Swordfish being a favourite which I highly recommend since Claudio suggested it to me in Alessio. 

Rosemary plant is a native of the Mediterranean region and is abundant.







Bagna Calabra below and a steep climb for about 7 klm in very warm conditions. A stop for a Gelati and a very welcomed local water fountain.

Ross at the fountain of youth

 Finally arrive at Palmi, Hotel tonight and the

standard pool you would expect for elite athletes.

Had news on our arrival that Tony, who is riding with his wife Robyn, fell off his bike negotiating a corner sliding on a sandy section. They are from Patterson Lakes in Melbourne. Not good news, a broken collar bone and three ribs. Will be in hospital for a few days.

Liam said he wanted to see something different than all boys in Lycra as it would not make a good album. How about this Liam at 6.11pm local time overlooking the Med  

 Met this young gentleman Pino (Joseph) on the beach by the cafe and part of discussion was about Australia, he had been there many times from 1968 onward. It turns out he was a steward on the Sitmar Line in the dining room on board the Fairsky. The same ship that our family came to Australia in 1969. Great to see you again after all these years Pino.

Last but not least a meal with the boys down by the water, approx 4 klm from the hotel, wonderful meal, and drinks, (full monty), then we asked a large local Italian family eating close by if it was possible to call a taxi, no says Mima, my husband will give you a lift, before you go would you like some of my homemade cakes and biscuits, sure would Mima I  won't pass up offers like this even though I was full. Grazie

When we arrived back at the hotel, the night manager picked our Australian accents and asked where were we from, Nth Dandenong, Croydon, Cheltenham etc,. he replied I was born in Springvale, but married a local girl 20 years ago and has settled in Palmi.

We had a wonderful chat and he said the Mafia were still active, just keep your nose clean don't rock the boat and you will be okay. Thanks Frank. Another full exciting day.

Meal drinks E73